Porto is a beautiful city, and hilly, like most cities I've visited on this trip. I had difficulty figuring how the hills related to the street pattern, so I did a lot of unnecessary ups and downs on my first day and a half. Porto is across the Rio Douro from Vila Nova da Gaia, home of the port wine cellars. The Ponte Luís I connects the cities via two decks: one nearly at river level, and one far above. Navigation became much easier once I figured out the best routes to the bridge landings, and I crossed many times. Views from the upper deck are outstanding.
On arrival I ate a Francesinha, which has got to be the local answer to poutine. A sandwich made of meat, meat, and meat, covered in cheese and a heavy sauce. I decided that one was enough for the weekend, but it was highly appreciated after that initial walking around.
The next day I went to a few ticket booths to find a long cruise up the Douro but nothing was available, which in retrospect should have been a hint. Instead I booked a short one for later that day, and took a walking tour in the meantime. That was a lot of fun, and took us to places I wouldn't have found on my own, like the stairs to the top of the city walls, the market, and the cafe where Harry Potter was allegedly written. A good way to meet other travelers too. I declined the tour guide's suggestion of another Francesinha for lunch.
The mini-cruise was refreshing on that hot day, and it took us to the mouth of the Douro as well as a little bit upstream, under several of Porto's bridges. I also saw catacombs under a church museum, and then it was time for some port. Ample signage on the VNdG side of the river points the way to the many port houses, which typically have English names, due to the heavy involvement of the English in developing the port industry. The general rule is: the harder it is to get to, the better the port. Taylor was the hardest climb, so that's where I went. Giant barrels, a (corporate-approved) history, and tastings were my reward. Thanks to taking the last tour of the day on the offseason, I was treated to sunset views from their famous terrace across the Douro.
Sunday, February 8, 2015
Monday, February 2, 2015
What I Learned at the University of Coimbra
Was there anything to do between Lisboa and Porto? Plenty, of course, but what was feasible? I had the dumb idea (or good idea, poorly executed) to spend a 4-hour train layover in Coimbra. Surely that would be plenty of time to see the highlights of this small city, right?
Things I know now that I did not upon entering Coimbra:
I'd recommend a trip to Coimbra. It's a lovely place. And now that I've been there once, I know the correct way to visit should I ever attempt it again.
Things I know now that I did not upon entering Coimbra:
- Trains between the long-distance "B" train station and the downtown "A" station follow a specific timetable, because they are normal regional trains, not a special intracity shuttle
- Station B is close enough to downtown that you shouldn't bother going to Station A
- The other reason to go to Station A - bag storage - is also irrelevant because the Cafe Cristal has closed
- Taxis are hard to find
- Admission to the Coimbra University Library requires a timed ticket
I'd recommend a trip to Coimbra. It's a lovely place. And now that I've been there once, I know the correct way to visit should I ever attempt it again.
Lisboa Endnotes
I ended my Lisboa trip with another tourist day. This one was more successful.
I started in the Alfama, the original settlement on a hill. I was in line at the Castelo São Jorge when it opened - a very good thing considering the crowds I saw later. This offers scampering opportunities similar to Sintra's Moorish Castle, with city views instead of forest. After that I walked back downhill to the cathedral (Sé) and returned to the metro system.
Later that day I visited the wonderful Gulbankian museum. An extensive collection of antiquities, as well as an exhibit on artist René Lalique, whom I had not heard of before. I really enjoyed how he combined different materials like metals and glass in his works. I also continued my aqueduct studies by visiting its terminus, at the Mãe d’Àgua (Mother of Water) building, a beautiful indoor reservoir now used as a function space. There's a walkway to the roof that allows you to look through the (unused) aqueduct itself.
Not a whole lot more to say about this day. OK, on to Coimbra and Porto.
I started in the Alfama, the original settlement on a hill. I was in line at the Castelo São Jorge when it opened - a very good thing considering the crowds I saw later. This offers scampering opportunities similar to Sintra's Moorish Castle, with city views instead of forest. After that I walked back downhill to the cathedral (Sé) and returned to the metro system.
Later that day I visited the wonderful Gulbankian museum. An extensive collection of antiquities, as well as an exhibit on artist René Lalique, whom I had not heard of before. I really enjoyed how he combined different materials like metals and glass in his works. I also continued my aqueduct studies by visiting its terminus, at the Mãe d’Àgua (Mother of Water) building, a beautiful indoor reservoir now used as a function space. There's a walkway to the roof that allows you to look through the (unused) aqueduct itself.
Not a whole lot more to say about this day. OK, on to Coimbra and Porto.
The Magical Wonderland of Sintra
I had made a note to visit Sintra, but I could not remember what there was to do (palaces? churches?) so I read about it while on the train there, choosing a few promising sights. I saw that it was near the Cabo da Roca (the westernmost point in Europe) but I didn't see a practical way to get there. Oh well.
When the train arrived at Sintra station, I saw the same kinds of hop-on/off tourist buses I'd seen in many cities on my trip. Didn't expect it here: wasn't Sintra too small? I hadn't taken any because I didn't see the point. Everywhere I wanted to go was accessible by foot, bus, taxi, or train, and I'd rather not have my hands tied by their schedule. But I didn't know how to get around Sintra and attractions are far apart, so maybe it finally did make sense. Oh, hold on a sec - this one goes all the way to Cabo da Roca? Sold!
Off we go through the countryside. For the first time, it feels a little like home. A leafy, hilly forest where some of the leaves actually change color. Cooler at this altitude, too. Maybe I wouldn't completely miss the fall! Relaxing, rather more pleasant than the average bus ride, and I suppose I learned a little something too. Then we hit the coast and I was amazed by beauty once again. Every visit to the Portuguese coast was incredible. (This will remain true in Porto!) Really I could have just spent my whole trip there. Cliffs and waves impressed again, as we passed a few gorgeous yet empty beaches, and I got off the bus at Cabo da Roca. This completed my collection of all four contenders for the southwesternmost point of Europe, but it's worth visiting even for non-dorks. Mindful that the bus schedule only allowed for pickups once an hour, I set off on a hike along the clifftops. I wasn't really dressed for it (recall that I didn't actually know what was in/near Sintra) but I had such joy climbing up and down ridges, with every bend providing a new (private!) view of the sea far below. I considered adding an hour by climbing down to the Atlantic, but I recalled reading something about how that was "not allowed" and "not safe" and other silly things, so I got back on the bus.
Back inland, my next destination was the Moorish Castle. There were several castles to choose from, and this sounded the most interesting. Also, the Pena Palace was nearby so maybe that would make a good combo, depending on time constraints. I loved it so much! The platonic ideal of a medieval fortress, grey stone battlements everywhere. You can climb all over it too. Lots of kids, and I like to think my inner-kid was having just as much fun as they were. I overheard a British mom cautioning her children "back home we would have a railing here - or any sort of safety precaution at all, really." Amazing views from the top of this hill, down to the town of Sintra and up to Pena Palace.
The map vaguely hinted at a path connecting this castle to Pena, so I aimed in that direction. The path itself was quite pretty, through thick forest reminiscent of Washington state. Sweating my way to the top of the next hill, I reached the absurdity that is Pena Palace. A ridiculous toy, impressive in its own way, but I had to laugh at the contrast between the candy-colored fairy tale and the barebones military installation I had just departed. Fun, but this was a much shorter visit. For one thing, much of the structure was a façade around a hollow core.
The bus and train did what buses and trains generally do, and back in Lisboa I paid a visit to the giant aqueduct I'd seen overhead earlier in my travels. A fish dinner (not bacalhau) capped off an excellent day.
When the train arrived at Sintra station, I saw the same kinds of hop-on/off tourist buses I'd seen in many cities on my trip. Didn't expect it here: wasn't Sintra too small? I hadn't taken any because I didn't see the point. Everywhere I wanted to go was accessible by foot, bus, taxi, or train, and I'd rather not have my hands tied by their schedule. But I didn't know how to get around Sintra and attractions are far apart, so maybe it finally did make sense. Oh, hold on a sec - this one goes all the way to Cabo da Roca? Sold!
Off we go through the countryside. For the first time, it feels a little like home. A leafy, hilly forest where some of the leaves actually change color. Cooler at this altitude, too. Maybe I wouldn't completely miss the fall! Relaxing, rather more pleasant than the average bus ride, and I suppose I learned a little something too. Then we hit the coast and I was amazed by beauty once again. Every visit to the Portuguese coast was incredible. (This will remain true in Porto!) Really I could have just spent my whole trip there. Cliffs and waves impressed again, as we passed a few gorgeous yet empty beaches, and I got off the bus at Cabo da Roca. This completed my collection of all four contenders for the southwesternmost point of Europe, but it's worth visiting even for non-dorks. Mindful that the bus schedule only allowed for pickups once an hour, I set off on a hike along the clifftops. I wasn't really dressed for it (recall that I didn't actually know what was in/near Sintra) but I had such joy climbing up and down ridges, with every bend providing a new (private!) view of the sea far below. I considered adding an hour by climbing down to the Atlantic, but I recalled reading something about how that was "not allowed" and "not safe" and other silly things, so I got back on the bus.
Back inland, my next destination was the Moorish Castle. There were several castles to choose from, and this sounded the most interesting. Also, the Pena Palace was nearby so maybe that would make a good combo, depending on time constraints. I loved it so much! The platonic ideal of a medieval fortress, grey stone battlements everywhere. You can climb all over it too. Lots of kids, and I like to think my inner-kid was having just as much fun as they were. I overheard a British mom cautioning her children "back home we would have a railing here - or any sort of safety precaution at all, really." Amazing views from the top of this hill, down to the town of Sintra and up to Pena Palace.
The map vaguely hinted at a path connecting this castle to Pena, so I aimed in that direction. The path itself was quite pretty, through thick forest reminiscent of Washington state. Sweating my way to the top of the next hill, I reached the absurdity that is Pena Palace. A ridiculous toy, impressive in its own way, but I had to laugh at the contrast between the candy-colored fairy tale and the barebones military installation I had just departed. Fun, but this was a much shorter visit. For one thing, much of the structure was a façade around a hollow core.
The bus and train did what buses and trains generally do, and back in Lisboa I paid a visit to the giant aqueduct I'd seen overhead earlier in my travels. A fish dinner (not bacalhau) capped off an excellent day.
A Night on the Town, At My Own Pace
Recharged from my visit to Cascais, I headed back to Lisboa in a better mood. I realized I hadn't actually been all the way downtown yet, so I stayed on the train to its terminus. The Praça do Comércio / Terreiro do Paço is a wide open public square with one side open to the Tejo estuary. There are steps allowing you to walk right in to the river. I came as close as I dared, until it became too slippery! Walkways were lit up, and music and a light breeze were in the air - perfect for a romantic evening with myself.
After a rest, I headed slightly uphill to see more of the Baixa (low city) until I came to the Santa Justa Elevator to take me back up. Hilly as it is, Lisboa has a variety of interesting options for public transit: San-Francisco-style cable cars, funiculars, and the occasional elevator built into the side of the hill. I made a point of taking one of these when I had the chance. In this case, it's overrated. Ugly, slow, expensive, and requiring a wait in line. Very close by there's a department store with doors to the lower Baixa and upper Chiado neighborhoods, with free modern elevators. Take these instead!
My hostel was nearby, so I stopped in for a shower before heading to dinner at a Fado house. There was a reasonable prix fixe offer so I took that, immediately regretting it as I realized just how tired I was of bacalhau. But the rest of the meal was good, and the music was beautiful. Fado is a soulful crooning sort of music, full of longing. We were treated to several short sets, each with a different singer. Compared with my Flamenco experience, this felt much more conventional. Still worth listening to, though!
After a rest, I headed slightly uphill to see more of the Baixa (low city) until I came to the Santa Justa Elevator to take me back up. Hilly as it is, Lisboa has a variety of interesting options for public transit: San-Francisco-style cable cars, funiculars, and the occasional elevator built into the side of the hill. I made a point of taking one of these when I had the chance. In this case, it's overrated. Ugly, slow, expensive, and requiring a wait in line. Very close by there's a department store with doors to the lower Baixa and upper Chiado neighborhoods, with free modern elevators. Take these instead!
My hostel was nearby, so I stopped in for a shower before heading to dinner at a Fado house. There was a reasonable prix fixe offer so I took that, immediately regretting it as I realized just how tired I was of bacalhau. But the rest of the meal was good, and the music was beautiful. Fado is a soulful crooning sort of music, full of longing. We were treated to several short sets, each with a different singer. Compared with my Flamenco experience, this felt much more conventional. Still worth listening to, though!
Cascais: the Lovely Seaside Town Next Door
I'd just about had it with Lisboa/Belém: a change of pace was required. There's regular train service to Cascais, so I thought I'd head out that way for late lunch / early dinner and a stroll along one of the beaches I'd heard about. And what a lovely ride it was, a beautiful afternoon along the shore of the Rio Tejo, past picturesque towns and beaches. At the last stop, I disembarked beachside and walked toward town. It reminded me a bit of a little seaside resort in New England. I had some wonderful rotisserie chicken. Things were looking up!
At the restaurant I learned that the Boca do Inferno was about a km or two away. Of course I wanted to see this "Mouth of Hell" on the rocky coast. No more beaches, the landscape was rugged and beautiful, much like the Cabo de São Vicente, and the sun was setting as I approached the Boca. It was far from hellish that day, with relatively calm seas, but the waves were still something to behold. Recommended! Also, ice cream.
At the restaurant I learned that the Boca do Inferno was about a km or two away. Of course I wanted to see this "Mouth of Hell" on the rocky coast. No more beaches, the landscape was rugged and beautiful, much like the Cabo de São Vicente, and the sun was setting as I approached the Boca. It was far from hellish that day, with relatively calm seas, but the waves were still something to behold. Recommended! Also, ice cream.
Lisboa is Crowded
My initial impressions of Lisboa weren't very positive. I suppose heavy traffic is inevitable in a major city when the only access from the south is by bridge, but this followed a long stressful day of the only driving I'd done in weeks. The Metro ride to vaguely-near-my-hostel was fine, but the taxi after that was atrocious. My driver was a comically grumpy old man who didn't speak a word of English. As I didn't speak much more than a word of Portuguese, I showed him a printout of the hostel's address. He didn't know where that was even though it was quite nearby and had to phone for help. Once we got started, we spent most of the journey in heavy traffic. I definitely picked the wrong neighborhood to stay in, too: the Bairro Alto. It was Saturday night and my room was directly above one of the main rooms with a frat-party / spring-break atmosphere. I just wanted to sleep!
The next day (mainly in the Belém neighborhood) was no better. Many things are free on Sunday, which should have tipped me off that this would make them popular, but I figured: how bad could it be? SO BAD. I spent most of the day standing in line, even considering everything I simply gave up on. My advice, if at all possible: don't visit Lisboa on a Sunday. Also, many sights are closed Monday, so that's also a poor choice too.
The next day (mainly in the Belém neighborhood) was no better. Many things are free on Sunday, which should have tipped me off that this would make them popular, but I figured: how bad could it be? SO BAD. I spent most of the day standing in line, even considering everything I simply gave up on. My advice, if at all possible: don't visit Lisboa on a Sunday. Also, many sights are closed Monday, so that's also a poor choice too.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)