Recharged from my visit to Cascais, I headed back to Lisboa in a better mood. I realized I hadn't actually been all the way downtown yet, so I stayed on the train to its terminus. The Praça do Comércio / Terreiro do Paço is a wide open public square with one side open to the Tejo estuary. There are steps allowing you to walk right in to the river. I came as close as I dared, until it became too slippery! Walkways were lit up, and music and a light breeze were in the air - perfect for a romantic evening with myself.
After a rest, I headed slightly uphill to see more of the Baixa (low city) until I came to the Santa Justa Elevator to take me back up. Hilly as it is, Lisboa has a variety of interesting options for public transit: San-Francisco-style cable cars, funiculars, and the occasional elevator built into the side of the hill. I made a point of taking one of these when I had the chance. In this case, it's overrated. Ugly, slow, expensive, and requiring a wait in line. Very close by there's a department store with doors to the lower Baixa and upper Chiado neighborhoods, with free modern elevators. Take these instead!
My hostel was nearby, so I stopped in for a shower before heading to dinner at a Fado house. There was a reasonable prix fixe offer so I took that, immediately regretting it as I realized just how tired I was of bacalhau. But the rest of the meal was good, and the music was beautiful. Fado is a soulful crooning sort of music, full of longing. We were treated to several short sets, each with a different singer. Compared with my Flamenco experience, this felt much more conventional. Still worth listening to, though!
No comments:
Post a Comment