What I Learned at the University of Coimbra

Was there anything to do between Lisboa and Porto?  Plenty, of course, but what was feasible?  I had the dumb idea (or good idea, poorly executed) to spend a 4-hour train layover in Coimbra.  Surely that would be plenty of time to see the highlights of this small city, right?

Things I know now that I did not upon entering Coimbra:

• Trains between the long-distance "B" train station and the downtown "A" station follow a specific timetable, because they are normal regional trains, not a special intracity shuttle
• Station B is close enough to downtown that you shouldn't bother going to Station A
• The other reason to go to Station A - bag storage - is also irrelevant because the Cafe Cristal has closed
• Taxis are hard to find
• Admission to the Coimbra University Library requires a timed ticket

Incorrect information for all of these added up to a time crunch that I compounded by having an extravagant lunch.  For some reason there's a locally-famous chef's restaurant at the University swimming complex.  That's not especially close to the train station, either.  But it was a beautiful walk and an excellent meal.  I was hoping a taxi would solve my time problem, but no.  I had to walk all the way up the hill with a full belly and backpack.  But eventually I did reach the hilltop plaza at the heart of the venerable University of Coimbra.  Mostly young folk were about, but a few tourists (or parents?) too.  I tried to get into the library (my main goal for this city!) but my cumulative bad decisions prevented me from doing so in the time I had remaining before my train departed.  Traveling the way I do, I have to be ready for failures like these, and so I have learned to accept them and try to enjoy the day anyway.  So I wandered around campus where I saw many students in academic capes.  The effect was adorably Harry Potter.  Oh, and I also had some ice cream while waiting for my train.

I'd recommend a trip to Coimbra.  It's a lovely place.  And now that I've been there once, I know the correct way to visit should I ever attempt it again.