I had made a note to visit Sintra, but I could not remember what there was to do (palaces? churches?) so I read about it while on the train there, choosing a few promising sights. I saw that it was near the Cabo da Roca (the westernmost point in Europe) but I didn't see a practical way to get there. Oh well.
When the train arrived at Sintra station, I saw the same kinds of hop-on/off tourist buses I'd seen in many cities on my trip. Didn't expect it here: wasn't Sintra too small? I hadn't taken any because I didn't see the point. Everywhere I wanted to go was accessible by foot, bus, taxi, or train, and I'd rather not have my hands tied by their schedule. But I didn't know how to get around Sintra and attractions are far apart, so maybe it finally did make sense. Oh, hold on a sec - this one goes all the way to Cabo da Roca? Sold!
Off we go through the countryside. For the first time, it feels a little like home. A leafy, hilly forest where some of the leaves actually change color. Cooler at this altitude, too. Maybe I wouldn't completely miss the fall! Relaxing, rather more pleasant than the average bus ride, and I suppose I learned a little something too. Then we hit the coast and I was amazed by beauty once again. Every visit to the Portuguese coast was incredible. (This will remain true in Porto!) Really I could have just spent my whole trip there. Cliffs and waves impressed again, as we passed a few gorgeous yet empty beaches, and I got off the bus at Cabo da Roca. This completed my collection of all four contenders for the southwesternmost point of Europe, but it's worth visiting even for non-dorks. Mindful that the bus schedule only allowed for pickups once an hour, I set off on a hike along the clifftops. I wasn't really dressed for it (recall that I didn't actually know what was in/near Sintra) but I had such joy climbing up and down ridges, with every bend providing a new (private!) view of the sea far below. I considered adding an hour by climbing down to the Atlantic, but I recalled reading something about how that was "not allowed" and "not safe" and other silly things, so I got back on the bus.
Back inland, my next destination was the Moorish Castle. There were several castles to choose from, and this sounded the most interesting. Also, the Pena Palace was nearby so maybe that would make a good combo, depending on time constraints. I loved it so much! The platonic ideal of a medieval fortress, grey stone battlements everywhere. You can climb all over it too. Lots of kids, and I like to think my inner-kid was having just as much fun as they were. I overheard a British mom cautioning her children "back home we would have a railing here - or any sort of safety precaution at all, really." Amazing views from the top of this hill, down to the town of Sintra and up to Pena Palace.
The map vaguely hinted at a path connecting this castle to Pena, so I aimed in that direction. The path itself was quite pretty, through thick forest reminiscent of Washington state. Sweating my way to the top of the next hill, I reached the absurdity that is Pena Palace. A ridiculous toy, impressive in its own way, but I had to laugh at the contrast between the candy-colored fairy tale and the barebones military installation I had just departed. Fun, but this was a much shorter visit. For one thing, much of the structure was a façade around a hollow core.
The bus and train did what buses and trains generally do, and back in Lisboa I paid a visit to the giant aqueduct I'd seen overhead earlier in my travels. A fish dinner (not bacalhau) capped off an excellent day.
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