Recharged from my visit to Cascais, I headed back to Lisboa in a better mood. I realized I hadn't actually been all the way downtown yet, so I stayed on the train to its terminus. The Praça do Comércio / Terreiro do Paço is a wide open public square with one side open to the Tejo estuary. There are steps allowing you to walk right in to the river. I came as close as I dared, until it became too slippery! Walkways were lit up, and music and a light breeze were in the air - perfect for a romantic evening with myself.
After a rest, I headed slightly uphill to see more of the Baixa (low city) until I came to the Santa Justa Elevator to take me back up. Hilly as it is, Lisboa has a variety of interesting options for public transit: San-Francisco-style cable cars, funiculars, and the occasional elevator built into the side of the hill. I made a point of taking one of these when I had the chance. In this case, it's overrated. Ugly, slow, expensive, and requiring a wait in line. Very close by there's a department store with doors to the lower Baixa and upper Chiado neighborhoods, with free modern elevators. Take these instead!
My hostel was nearby, so I stopped in for a shower before heading to dinner at a Fado house. There was a reasonable prix fixe offer so I took that, immediately regretting it as I realized just how tired I was of bacalhau. But the rest of the meal was good, and the music was beautiful. Fado is a soulful crooning sort of music, full of longing. We were treated to several short sets, each with a different singer. Compared with my Flamenco experience, this felt much more conventional. Still worth listening to, though!
Monday, February 2, 2015
Cascais: the Lovely Seaside Town Next Door
I'd just about had it with Lisboa/Belém: a change of pace was required. There's regular train service to Cascais, so I thought I'd head out that way for late lunch / early dinner and a stroll along one of the beaches I'd heard about. And what a lovely ride it was, a beautiful afternoon along the shore of the Rio Tejo, past picturesque towns and beaches. At the last stop, I disembarked beachside and walked toward town. It reminded me a bit of a little seaside resort in New England. I had some wonderful rotisserie chicken. Things were looking up!
At the restaurant I learned that the Boca do Inferno was about a km or two away. Of course I wanted to see this "Mouth of Hell" on the rocky coast. No more beaches, the landscape was rugged and beautiful, much like the Cabo de São Vicente, and the sun was setting as I approached the Boca. It was far from hellish that day, with relatively calm seas, but the waves were still something to behold. Recommended! Also, ice cream.
At the restaurant I learned that the Boca do Inferno was about a km or two away. Of course I wanted to see this "Mouth of Hell" on the rocky coast. No more beaches, the landscape was rugged and beautiful, much like the Cabo de São Vicente, and the sun was setting as I approached the Boca. It was far from hellish that day, with relatively calm seas, but the waves were still something to behold. Recommended! Also, ice cream.
Lisboa is Crowded
My initial impressions of Lisboa weren't very positive. I suppose heavy traffic is inevitable in a major city when the only access from the south is by bridge, but this followed a long stressful day of the only driving I'd done in weeks. The Metro ride to vaguely-near-my-hostel was fine, but the taxi after that was atrocious. My driver was a comically grumpy old man who didn't speak a word of English. As I didn't speak much more than a word of Portuguese, I showed him a printout of the hostel's address. He didn't know where that was even though it was quite nearby and had to phone for help. Once we got started, we spent most of the journey in heavy traffic. I definitely picked the wrong neighborhood to stay in, too: the Bairro Alto. It was Saturday night and my room was directly above one of the main rooms with a frat-party / spring-break atmosphere. I just wanted to sleep!
The next day (mainly in the Belém neighborhood) was no better. Many things are free on Sunday, which should have tipped me off that this would make them popular, but I figured: how bad could it be? SO BAD. I spent most of the day standing in line, even considering everything I simply gave up on. My advice, if at all possible: don't visit Lisboa on a Sunday. Also, many sights are closed Monday, so that's also a poor choice too.
The next day (mainly in the Belém neighborhood) was no better. Many things are free on Sunday, which should have tipped me off that this would make them popular, but I figured: how bad could it be? SO BAD. I spent most of the day standing in line, even considering everything I simply gave up on. My advice, if at all possible: don't visit Lisboa on a Sunday. Also, many sights are closed Monday, so that's also a poor choice too.
Tuesday, January 27, 2015
Southwest Portugal By Car
My first time driving in Europe was a lot of fun. Also very nerve-wracking. I had intended to drive a bit in Spain but could not find a reasonable way to do so. Seeing Cabo São Vicente would have been a real challenge on public transportation, so I'm glad I was able to make a semi-reasonable plan: one-way rental from Portimão to Lisboa, after taking a bus from Sevilla to Portimão.
Leaving Portimão was a challenge. I stalled out the stick-shift on several occasions, and in-city navigation required basic familiarity with the city, which I lacked. Once out of town, city destinations and route numbers were easy enough to follow, but I made a few loops and double-backs attempting to find the city limits. Soon after I was in Sagres, the town at the end of the world. The coast was spectacular, cliffs high above the fierce Atlantic, occasionally overlooking beaches and surfers. Not too many, perhaps due to the remoteness of the area.
I was prepared for the worst based on the bad reputation of Portuguese drivers, but the only difference I saw from, say, Bostonians, was the higher number of speeding tailgaters. Just let these guys pass and you're golden. The roads were a more formidable opponent. I hadn't realized just how hilly the Portuguese coast is, so the main road is a very twisty one. My little car was nimble and up to the task, but doing this for hours on end was exhausting. One final slog took me through heavy traffic across the Rio Tejo to Lisboa.
Leaving Portimão was a challenge. I stalled out the stick-shift on several occasions, and in-city navigation required basic familiarity with the city, which I lacked. Once out of town, city destinations and route numbers were easy enough to follow, but I made a few loops and double-backs attempting to find the city limits. Soon after I was in Sagres, the town at the end of the world. The coast was spectacular, cliffs high above the fierce Atlantic, occasionally overlooking beaches and surfers. Not too many, perhaps due to the remoteness of the area.
I was prepared for the worst based on the bad reputation of Portuguese drivers, but the only difference I saw from, say, Bostonians, was the higher number of speeding tailgaters. Just let these guys pass and you're golden. The roads were a more formidable opponent. I hadn't realized just how hilly the Portuguese coast is, so the main road is a very twisty one. My little car was nimble and up to the task, but doing this for hours on end was exhausting. One final slog took me through heavy traffic across the Rio Tejo to Lisboa.
Everything is Beautiful in Sevilla
Back to Spain! Sevilla is a beautiful city. Gigantic historical buildings, a lovely waterfront, yet another mini maze old town, and plenty of night life. I made sure to see a Flamenco show as well. I certainly didn't understand the complexities of the intricate music and dance, but the skill of the performers was obvious and they created something beautiful. Unlike many of my other destinations, Sevilla is flat, so I took a bike tour the next day. It brought me to several locations I wouldn't have seen otherwise, like the Plaza de España and the World Expo sites upriver.
My last full day in town was basically a non-stop tour of the main tourist sites. Here's my itinerary:
My last full day in town was basically a non-stop tour of the main tourist sites. Here's my itinerary:
- Laundry (closed, too early)
- Breakfast
- Laundry
- Real Alcazar
- Laundry (done)
- Iglesia del Salvador
- Lunch at Bodega Morales
- Cathedral
- Snack
- Bullring
- Hospital de la Caridad
- Antiquarium
- Metropol Parasol
- Guitar concert
- Tapas
A Rough Day in Morocco
Tangier, Morocco is just across the Straits of Gibraltar from Spain, so I took a ferry day trip. It was my first time on the African continent, in a an Arabic-speaking country, and in a Muslim country too. I was hoping that proximity to Europe would make for an easy intro to all of these, but this was by far the worst day of my trip.
I had read about the pushy "guides" looking for money, but I was unprepared for the reality of constant harassment. I never felt threatened, exactly, but I also couldn't find a moment of peace. Followed, more than once. No escape. Panic. Maybe this is a cultural thing but it's as if they were handed a script on "how to drive Joel completely insane". Certainly some people can handle this experience, and maybe even have a wonderful time. But that's not me. I won't be back.
I had read about the pushy "guides" looking for money, but I was unprepared for the reality of constant harassment. I never felt threatened, exactly, but I also couldn't find a moment of peace. Followed, more than once. No escape. Panic. Maybe this is a cultural thing but it's as if they were handed a script on "how to drive Joel completely insane". Certainly some people can handle this experience, and maybe even have a wonderful time. But that's not me. I won't be back.
Gibraltar: British Overseas Territory of the Apes
Ah, my first trip to the United Kingdom. It was a very typical one, entering the way most people do, walking from Spain across a live airport runway, then catching a right-side-driving bus downtown. Next I took a cable car up a giant Rock, with great views of the Mediterranean on the way. At the top, I continued sightseeing while dodging feral monkeys (500 pound fine for feeding) and feral scooters, eventually making my way back down along the zigzag roads.
Back in Town (the flat part of the territory) I wandered south to Europa Point, the "southernmost point in Europe". This is an absurd claim because you can actually SEE more southerly European land from here, west across Bahía de Algeciras. I arrived at sunset, perfectly timed to hear the mosque's call to prayer and then see lights come on all over. I finished my trip in a pub with a steak and kidney pie and a pint of bitter.
Man, I don't know why people complain about the weather in Britain. It was beautiful!
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