"Everyone in Spain travels by bus", the guidebooks say, because they're usually a good deal cheaper, and sometimes they're actually faster. But they're certainly not as enjoyable. Seats are cramped and the frequent high speed roundabouts are hard on the stomach. Unfortunately, there's not really a good train from Córdoba to Granada. They do appear to be building AVE tracks to fix that. Yay!
Aside: we saw snow up in the mountains from this ride!
My hostel is close to the main tourist nexus of Granada, Plaza Nueva, for easy access to the good stuff. And boy is it hopping! Tour buses, street Flamenco, artisans, Policía, bars and restaurants, and confused tourists like me. Eventually I manage to find the right kiosk to pick up my Bono Turístico (for bus rides and Alhambra admission, pre-ordering an absolute must).
Ok. Great. Now the hostel.
This is an adventure in itself. I'm staying in the Albayzín*, the old fortified Muslim hill town, one of the main things I'm here to see. From what I've read, this is about the only area in Andalucía that retained its Moorish character, and there are plenty of new arrivals from Morocco, Tunisia, and the like, and Arabic is often heard. It's a level up in difficulty from the Barri Gòtic even before you consider that it's mainly steep hills. Oh and this particular section is essentially a bazaar. Spices for sale! Scarves, rugs, bags! Your Name in Arabic, 1 Euro! Henna! Tea houses (euphemism for hookah/shisha room)! The tourist maps are inadequate, so it's a good thing it's only a few blocks. Hostel This Way signs at strategic points saved me, but I'm realizing I have this to look forward to every time I go home.
After settling in, I roam the area slightly away from Plaza Nueva in a successful search of the legendary FREE tapas. I'm hungry, so I order some food I pay for too. Also more wine. Apparently in Spain I drink wine instead of beer. The options are generally a lot better. I've been really enjoying fino, a dry white sherry (Jerez) which is quite different from the sweet sherry stereotype. I'll have to look for Tio Pepe or Manzanilla when I get home.
A short walk along the lovely bank of the river Darro (not to be confused with the Douro) and I'm ready for bed.
* often spelled Albaicín: not clear what the significance there is.
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