Friday, March 13, 2015

Thibaulstrop's Saga

I will begin this tale with three facts:

  1. The Icelandic sagas (often called the first novels) are legends of the first people who lived during the Settlement Era.
  2. The Saga Museum of Reykjavik is not in Perlan. 
  3. The speed, in miles per hour, of a sneeze is approximately 55.

And so it dawned on the third morning in Reykjavik a promise of a day with less-than-perfect weather – even less perfect than the two days before. So less-than-perfect, in fact, that our travelers’ tour had been canceled. When our wary travelers awoke, they saw a deceptively calm, ice-colored sky, only to find their wireless Internet was no longer operational. The first few drops of frigid rain fell as they made their way to the C is for Cookie Café, where they dined on rye toast with butter, ham, cheese, and hummus while sending vital messages to friends, family, and the keepers of their inn’s wireless Internet. 

As they made their way into the world again, a cold rain had started to fall. A slight wind blew, though nothing, noted the travelers, tour-cancelation worthy. But the sidewalks – no less cleared than they had been the days before – had frozen overnight and were now slicked with a layer of rain, making their walk to the city center slow going.

Their first stop, the Settlement Expedition, pleased our travelers. Afterwards, they wished to learn more about these early settlers and their stories at the Saga Museum, so they caught a bus to Perlan. However, even though the buses were clean, fast, and many of them mustachioed (for men’s cancer awareness), the stop names were less than clear. While the timetable clearly stated a stop for Perlan, the stops announced on board did not, and thusly our travelers got off a full stop ahead of where they were to be.

Now, in normal weather, this would not be such a problem. Our travelers merely had to walk an extra ten minutes or so to reach the top of a hill where the museum sat within a glass dome with a blinking light on top. But the moment they got off the bus they understood why their aforementioned tour had been canceled.

In America, the travelers had heard stories of the rain being God’s tears, or God’s spit, or other bodily fluids of God’s. But on this day, in this Nordic land of ice, the rain that stung their cheeks and wind that shoved them along the path to the Perlan was nothing short of sneezes coming from the great nose of Odin himself. It was as if Odin had the worst cold in all of Valhala, and no one was safe from his torment. 

So the travelers leaned against the wind and icy mucous of the gods, trudging through slushy snow and wet ice to the top of the hill, that ten minutes feeling more like ten days. When, at last, they reached the top, the welcoming warmth and dryness of the Perlan – and the promise of the Saga Museum - was as comforting as a mother’s hug.

Except this was less like the comfort of a mother’s hug and more like the disorienting realization that this strange woman is not your mother, and your mother moved downtown last May, and how strange that it still says this address in all the guidebooks and websites. Pity. Care to see our cafeteria?

Our travelers sat next to one of the windows of the glass dome, listening to the wind whip over the building, watching the rain pelt the glass and the surface of the closed observation deck. It really was beautiful, this not-Saga Museum. There were lovely views of Reykjavik and the surrounding land, and a geyser-like fountain on the ground floor that erupted every ten minutes. Our travelers might have been more excited to be there were they not soaked, cold, and wondering how they were ever going to find the strength to walk back down to the bus stop.

They packed and bundled, ready to face the gods’ wrath, but got barely feet from the front door before turning back. The way was too treacherous – the wind too strong, the rain too sharp. Our travelers, heads hung in defeat, entered the Perlan again, greeted by the confused steward who, just moments before, wrested the door open for them to the harsh outside world. Embarrassed, they admitted their weakness. The bus stop was too far. They would need to call a taxi. 

The steward, our travelers’ hero, hailed a car that appeared in mere moments, which whisked them back to their inn in under twenty minutes and twenty dollars. Our travelers hung up their clothes on the radiators, settled down to relax, and celebrated the return of the internet…only to find out their tour for the next day, too, was canceled.

And so ends this story.

Wednesday, March 11, 2015

New Joel Journey (Plus Kate!)

Greetings from Iceland! Kate here. Joel has tasked me with keeping the records for our journey to the land of ice and fire. We just arrived this morning, and I'm excited to share our day with you -- as soon as I have a full night's sleep! Red-eyes flights are brutal.

Check back, faithful JJ readers! Until then I leave you with a tidbit from our long day's wanderings. 

YES, WOMEN! WELCOME TO ICELAND!
BATHROOM HERE!

Tuesday, February 10, 2015

Home Without Pants But With Love

About a week before heading home, the zipper on my only pair of pants broke. This wasn't such a tragedy because it was generally warm enough for shorts, and I had several pairs of these surviving.  However, a problem loomed on the horizon: what to do when I landed in a Boston November?

Skirt by Lufthansa

While I had an amazing journey (and look forward to my next!) I got rather lonely at times, and missed everyone I left behind.  I was so happy to see Kate at the airport to welcome her monkey home.  <3



Monday, February 9, 2015

Trick or Treat: You Can't Go Home Yet

My five hostel roommates in Porto were all French women.  Not all part of the same group, as I eventually pieced together.  We started chatting a bit after I revealed that I could understand *some* of what they were saying.  :)  One in particular, Jennifer, really enjoyed practicing her English with me and asked me all sorts of silly questions about America.  Four of us were in the room without dinner plans, so we decided to go out in our neighborhood.  It was an area with lots of bars and restaurants, but so far a more laid-back vibe than Lisboa's Bairro Alto.  Vaguely reminiscent of Camberville back home.  But would this change, for it was both Friday and Halloween?

Do the Portuguese even celebrate Halloween?  We saw many costumed revelers, but were they locals or visitors like us?  At any rate, the party in the streets seemed to go all night.  This was mainly observed from the bedroom, as I had had a long day and needed to get up in the morning to fly home.  Leaving the hostel at 9, the area was filthy.  In addition to the bottles and other detritus, I saw early morning shamblers still in costume.  The gaits of these zombies seemed much less affected than earlier.  After breakfast and a minor hassle involving my Andante card, I was on the way to the airport (which is sadly not named the Airporto) with exactly zero euros in pocket.  I'm strangely proud of this.  Jennifer and Estelle were with me in order to catch their flight back to France.

Ah.  But.  It was not to be.

I'd been hearing rumors about a strike for a few days.  Nothing specific, and I'd also been hearing reassurances that it would be over by my flight, or wouldn't affect me for other reasons.  Doing my own research to back this up wasn't fruitful, and I received no communications from my airlines about this either.  What I did receive was the standard nag email about early check-in, however, so I assumed it must be fine.  Even in the departures hall, there was no indication that anything was amiss.  I had to check in at the counter before I heard the news that my flight was cancelled due to a strike.  Sigh.

The next available flight was early the next morning, so they set me up in a hotel room with meal vouchers.  It was easily the nicest room of my trip, because it wasn't like anything I would have chosen: a business hotel by the airport, far from downtown.  The location was initially disappointing, as I was hoping to use my extra day to see a few things I'd missed.  But then I realized I was close to the coast, which totally counted.

My first stop: Castelo Queijo.  Cheese Castle.  How could I pass that up?  It's an old fort on the coast that's fun to poke around in for a bit but it's thoroughly overshadowed by the might of the sea.  Waves are fierce here on the semi-rocky shore.  A fair number of surfers at the beachy parts.  Very interesting rocks here, and a helpful geology boardwalk to educate!  A little further down, I walked out onto a breakwater where I learned another lesson: a refresher on the purpose of a breakwater.  Thankfully my clothes dried quickly in the sun.

It turns out there's a very convenient bus downtown, so I headed back that way soon after getting friendly with the wave.  I finally took the Gaia gondola down to the river side and then I walked back up the hill to another port house: Croft this time.  The experience is remarkably similar to Taylor (which I would later discover is actually the same company) and I finished the evening at a cozy fado/port bar for additional tastings.

Sunday, February 8, 2015

Off-Season Misadventures do Douro

Don't visit the Douro valley in the post-harvest off-season, at least without both a car and an international roaming plan.  They're clearly not expecting visitors.  I had some lovely walks, but I had the hardest time finding information, and I couldn't book a cruise at all.  I decided to go by train instead, as there is year-round frequent service.  It was to be primarily a scenic journey, without too much thought as to what I'd do in the destination town(s).  Maybe tour a vineyard or do a tasting?

A common destination for the cruise/train combo trip I'd hoped for is Peso da Régua, but I'd heard Pinhão upriver was nicer.  My ticket was flexible enough for me to visit both.  It amused me to notice that we went by a factory that processed wood, rock, and brick.  I realized that I'd lose my undeclared game of Settlers of Catan against them and was about to give up until I spotted fields of sheep and wheat for me to claim.  Otherwise I was disappointed with the journey: not nearly as scenic as I'd hoped.  It could have been the hazy morning light, perhaps due to the smoke from the many fires we passed (??) or the simple fact that the grapes were no longer on the vines.

Arriving at Pinhão, I was one of the many disembarking with a clueless look.  After a brief fruitless search for tourist information up and down the deserted main street, a fellow train passenger spotted me and asked if I knew where to go.  Nope!  No plan at all.  (My research the previous night turned up nothing.  I now understood why.)  She at least had a printout of destinations and notes, and graciously allowed me to tag along.  I wasn't entirely sure whether we were aiming for a vineyard, winery, viewpoint, or some combination of these.  We asked for directions and got the answer "that way, 4 kilometers, uphill."  Hm.  Farther than we'd hoped but we had no better plan.

As we climbed, the valley opened up beneath us.  This really was a beautiful place.  Terraced vineyards in every direction, the Douro below.  Soon, far below.  Faraway signs touting Quintas (vineyards/wineries) or the port houses they supplied.  My favorites advertized the ubiquitous Sandeman, usually accompanied by their logo, a vaguely menacing cloaked figure holding a glass.  I wonder what the workers think with that image constantly looming over them.

About halfway to Quinta Godot our mysterious destination, my companion announces that the views we've already seen are quite excellent enough, and she's heading back to town.  I consider it, but I've still got a minimum of two hours before my first train option arrives, so why not keep going?  Before long, it gets considerably steeper in the hot sun, and I realize the wisdom of her choice.  Fine.  Back to town.

I'm in luck!  Lunch is good, filling, and cheap, even in this ghost town.  Some time remains, so I wander down to the river to find ... people!  Restaurants!  Even the damn tourist information booth.  I guess they're expecting everyone to come by boat.  Oh well.  I find my new friend again and we compare notes on what to do next.  Two basic options: directly back to Porto, or take another stab at this day by visiting Régua on the way back.  We both pick Régua, her choice for a cathedral, and mine for wandering off at random again.  Régua's a good deal bigger, so this idea seems vaguely plausible to me.

Lesson learned from Pinhão, I walk directly to the docks.  A cruise director points me to tourist info across town.  They are open!  And have map handouts!  With wineries on them!  However, most are many km away.  One that looks walkable is back by the train station, where I need to get to anyway, so my choice is made.  Ah, but it seems to be deserted as well.  I can just walk right in to a room full of vats.  Olá?  No response.  I finally find human contact at the shop.  There's no tour available, which I didn't understand at first, but I did stick around for a super-cheesy short film and a tasting.

...and then I missed my train.  Curses!  There was even a shortcut back from the winery that would have saved me, but it only became apparent once I was already in the station.  But you know what?  The sun was setting and there's an infinite number of less beautiful places I could have been.  My unintended extra hour went to good use by buying a snack for a walk across a few bridges, including the wonderfully named Ponte Metálica.  From there I saw that the Sandeman casts his shadow over Régua too.

The Sandeman Can



Source: https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Sandeman_Port_2.jpg

Who can take a sunrise
Sprinkle it with dew
Plant upon a hillside
With a rustic river view
 


The Sandeman
The Sandeman can
Cause he mixes it with brandy
To stop the fermentation 




Who can take a grapevine
And harvest it by hand
Who's that mysterious figure 
Watching over this land?




The Sandeman
The Sandeman can
Cause he mixes it with brandy
To stop the fermentation




And it's aged in wood
Cause the Sandeman thinks it should

Porto, Portugal, Home of Port

Porto is a beautiful city, and hilly, like most cities I've visited on this trip.  I had difficulty figuring how the hills related to the street pattern, so I did a lot of unnecessary ups and downs on my first day and a half.  Porto is across the Rio Douro from Vila Nova da Gaia, home of the port wine cellars.  The Ponte Luís I connects the cities via two decks: one nearly at river level, and one far above.  Navigation became much easier once I figured out the best routes to the bridge landings, and I crossed many times.  Views from the upper deck are outstanding.

On arrival I ate a Francesinha, which has got to be the local answer to poutine.  A sandwich made of meat, meat, and meat, covered in cheese and a heavy sauce.  I decided that one was enough for the weekend, but it was highly appreciated after that initial walking around.

The next day I went to a few ticket booths to find a long cruise up the Douro but nothing was available, which in retrospect should have been a hint.  Instead I booked a short one for later that day, and took a walking tour in the meantime.  That was a lot of fun, and took us to places I wouldn't have found on my own, like the stairs to the top of the city walls, the market, and the cafe where Harry Potter was allegedly written.  A good way to meet other travelers too.  I declined the tour guide's suggestion of another Francesinha for lunch.

The mini-cruise was refreshing on that hot day, and it took us to the mouth of the Douro as well as a little bit upstream, under several of Porto's bridges.  I also saw catacombs under a church museum, and then it was time for some port.  Ample signage on the VNdG side of the river points the way to the many port houses, which typically have English names, due to the heavy involvement of the English in developing the port industry.  The general rule is: the harder it is to get to, the better the port.  Taylor was the hardest climb, so that's where I went.  Giant barrels, a (corporate-approved) history, and tastings were my reward.  Thanks to taking the last tour of the day on the offseason, I was treated to sunset views from their famous terrace across the Douro.